Each morning my news-obsessed papa says this country is going to dogs. I say this city is going to dogs. It’s a hot November afternoon and I’m in Chandni Chowk. Gurdwara Seesganj Sahib is in front of me; Jain Mandir is close by, and Jama Masjid not far. So holy a place and yet no peace. Read more

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The Delhi Walla discovered this grainy image in the archives of LIFE magazine. Nothing is known about the year when this picture was taken. But the life seen in this frame is proof enough that much has changed in this city down the decades. Read more

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On the Sunday that preceded Republic Day, there were no booksellers in Daryajanj’s weekly book bazaar.

“It’s closed for security reasons,” a paanwalla told me. I stood on the empty pavement and laughed. Trains were still chugging in Old Delhi station, chaatwallas were still frying tikkis in Chandni Chowk but this booklovers’ den was a security threat. Read more

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