The Delhi Walla hangs out with a dancing girl of Lahore’s Heera Mandi
Heera Mandi, Lahore’s fabled red light district, is almost dead. Most dancing establishments have shut down. The courtesans no longer pretend to be mere dancers. Operating as full-fledged sex workers, they have set up discrete bases in the city’s other areas where they solicit clients on cell phones.

The mujra woman at a heera mandi kotha
However, tonight as The Delhi Walla is walking in a Heera Mandi street, while the moon is rising above the minaret of the grand Badshahi Mosque, I can hear the music of dholaks and harmoniums, and the tinkling of womens’ pajebs (anklets).

The Delhiwalla with a heera mandi madam
Once, Mughal princes courted the Heera Mandi’s virgins. The feudal families of North India sent their young sons to be trained under the guidance of the Heera Mandi ladies. They were expected to learn the style of fine Urdu conversation, to appreciate the nuances of Hindustani classical music and to get well versed in the art of lovemaking. But now times have changed. Heera Mandi is merely another red light district where men go only for sex, not for music and poems.
Stepping into an establishment, I find a lady sitting on a sofa. Her face is gleaming with layers of makeup. Dressed in a parrot-green kurta and mullah shalwar, she is wearing one necklace and two finger rings. On the floor, her musicians are waiting for customers. I try talking to her but she is refusing to tell me her name. She is not saying where she has come from. But now she is getting up to dance for me. She is the last of the Heera Mandi legend.
Hindustan Times



(6 votes, average: 3.83 out of 5)

Rajeev Reply:
April 1st, 2010 at 10:19 pm
No..No..No..how can muslims be communal? Muslims in pakistan regularly visit gurudwaras and consider Nanak equal to Mohammad.
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Salman Reply:
April 1st, 2010 at 10:50 pm
Muslims have great regard for Baba guru Nanak but muslims dont consider anyone equal to Muhammad PBUH
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Rajeev Reply:
April 2nd, 2010 at 12:59 am
You should. Infact Nanak was far better than Mohammad.
Salman Reply:
April 2nd, 2010 at 1:08 am
Look..Do u know Guru Nanak has written poetry in which he praised Muhammad. Go and read that…Guru Nanak has also performed hajj. Many of his teachers were muslims. Any how I dont expect from non muslim to have a faith in Muhammad.
Kishore Reply:
April 2nd, 2010 at 3:18 am
To praise someone is a sign of humility.It is a saintly quality because a saint always see others as more saintly.When Nanda Maharaj asked Sri Krsna to fetch his sandals He would bring them on His head.But that does not mean that Sri Krsna is inferior to Nanda Maharaj.If Muhammad was so great why don’t we see any greatness in his followers.The only thing I see is more death,misery and sufferings brought on by his followers.A Guru is known by the quality of his disciples.The Sikh community is infinitely more peaceful therefore Sri Guru Nanak is a genuine spiritual master.
Roop Reply:
April 2nd, 2010 at 3:39 am
why is this thing being connected to any religion??? Both sikh and islam are high in their own place.
I am a hindu brahmin boy, but I have read almost all religious books. Nowhere is written that our religion is higher. the only common teaching of all religion is love all people and you will be loved.
There is no mention of any other religion being looked down upon or is lesser. it’s some nonsense religious leaders who are preaching nonsense stuffs. friends everyone has to die, what is the use of dying before actual death or killing others. also regarding the lady from the Heera Mandi, this is their profession, one of the oldest profession in the world. even if someone will dance infront of us, we will enjoy as well. so what to fight for? JUST ENJOY !!!!!
Sunil Reply:
April 2nd, 2010 at 5:48 am
Salman.. there has been a question that has always intrigued me. Answer it honestly… Non muslims refer to others as Muslims, Sikhs, Christians, Jains, etc… But muslims refer to non-muslims as INFIDELS…. why??
Salman Reply:
April 2nd, 2010 at 11:38 pm
In Urdu, infidels means kafir. Correct me if I m wrong…Kafir comes from word Kufir. Kufir means deny and Kafir means some one who denies. Thus Infidel means someone who denies in oneness of a God, Its holy prophets, angels, Holy books, Day of Judgement etc..
So non muslims should not be offended by calling thmeselves as Infidels by muslims cos they deny…
The word “Infidels” is also present in christianity.
Rajeev Reply:
April 3rd, 2010 at 12:51 am
You see Nanak praised Mohammad and even performed Hajj but have muslims ever returned the favor. The 99.9999% sikhs consider heathen Mohammad as respectful as true noble soul Nanak but you consider heathen Mohammad supreme.