Runway to runway
Even as the Delhi Couture Week is gearing itself up to begin on August 8 in Delhi, Lakme Fashion Week kick started in Mumbai on Aug 2…. Here’s what happened in the last two days…
Genext is something that is always looked forward to at the Lakme Fashion Week. In the past LFW launched many talented raw hands through this platform who today are playing the role as some of the best known fashion designers in the country. At this season’s LFW with its winter/festive theme, the Genext show was a mixed bag of a couple of extreme talents followed by a few who scored not very well. Particularly noticeable was Neha Aggarwal with her innovative interpretation of silhouettes and prints and a somewhat ‘couture’ish’ presentation by Aza Kazingmei, in which the effort put in by the budding designer to make his creations stand out was evident.
Pia Pauro’s second showing at LFW too was interesting in its own way. The collection in organic fabrics presented by the Delhi-based designer was young in appeal and silhouettes in varied forms. More subdued colour platette of garments were complimented with brighter and vibrant footwear and clever accessorisation. Ritu Beri on the other hand at her showing for Volvo Cars using a variety of interesting fabrics with lace appliqués taking the centre stage of her collection. Her silhouettes had both close to the body as well as more breath easy kinds.
Jatin Verma’s presen tation this season had extensive surface detailing using chains, felt appliqué, tone on tone sequence and brasswork. Silhouttes with gathering of net fabrics along with appliqué made a very interesting appeal to the whole collection and at the same made it somewhat exaggerated in its overall look making them meant strictly for women with slender bodies. Vizion, the label that was launched three years ago by Shradha Murarka and Nino Palisse had a very creative runway collection using interesting dense embroidery on structured silhouettes. While their collection was particularly trendy in appeal, some of the garments shown including copper fully embroidered skirt, black cutted leater skirt and the structured dress with overlap cutouts were very nicely executed.
Pallavi Jaikishen at the last showing of the day celebrated her 40 years in fashion designing through a very opulent showing on the LFW runway. Her collection of festive wear was extremely well executed with intricate and extensive embroidery, pleasant colour palette and a very stylish overall appeal.
There were several leaders of tomorrow’s fashion in the making on the second day of the Lakme Fashion Week, being held at the Grand Hyatt in Mumbai. Talented newcomers who debuted through the Genext platform last season further strengthened their position on the fashion runway on Saturday morning. At the showing that was till recently being called as the Emerging Designers (LFW skipped this title this season but the showing was by the same who started last season) some of the best collections came into the foray.
Aartivijay Gupta’s collection of western silhouettes with pencil-like drawings and colour charts was novel and for the same reason stood out on the runway. While Nikhil Thampi played around with the silhouettes in interesting ways, his corsets and fully embellished slim pants and crushed looks in silks were particularly interesting. Yogesh Choudhary who played with stripes in various forms last season at his debut showing chose to play with Pacman prints this time on his creations. No doubt his collection was crisp and young in appeal and the concept of the game was cleverly executed through the lineup. Exaggerated sizes and baggy appeals coupled with carefully chosen fabrics such as organic cotton, khadi, silk and wool, the young designer managed to throw a fair sprinkle of interesting styles on the runway.
Artiste/designer Payal Khandawala stuck with her signature ways of playing around with her fabrics using various techniques to create her silhouettes while leaving the surface as it is as she did last season. Result was seen in a collection that looked not just stylish, but very comfortable. Roma Narsinghani too showed her collection but definitely can do better. Pernia Qureishi’s ‘An Evening in Paris’ collection also debuted on the LFW runway this season. While in terms of styling the collection had somewhat made an appeal, the finishing part however left a lot to be desired. If she can percolate her personal choice of her wardrobe into her designing part, there is no doubt that she can come out with a collection with full of appeal next season. Drashta started off well with clean, minimalist looks and should have continued with that.
Priyadarshini Rao came out with a stunning collection that was not just perfectly made but using an array of fabrics with varied detailing. Colours moved from bright to off-whites in chiffon, cotton and silk and the emphasis on textiles and what an able designer can do to bring out the best in fashion and style was evident in her creations.
The day ended with a minimum is maximum in style kind of presentation by Wendell Rodricks where the designer started with a riot of bright colours and graduated to his signature crisp whites. The use of fabrics, with some of them wearing traces of tone-on-tone strategically placed embellishment in the most intricate manner, on various drapes and styles and his ability to impress the audience with what he does all were in evidence at his showing this season.