On Saturday night, we ordered idlis at one of Beijing’s two restaurants with a basic South Indian menu. I was not surprised when they said that the unpopular idlis and dosas were bumped off the downsized menu and the South Indian cook had gone home to India.

The previous week, while the rest of Beijing was away on holiday for the Lunar New Year, I had my loneliest dinner ever, at an upscale Indian restaurant. Read more

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