Building Beijing’s Nariman Point



I remember the thrill a windy day last March, when I first set eyes on what was then the world’s most controversial skyscraper being built. It still draws China’s biggest buzz about a building.

“Today, it is cold. You must wear clothes,’’ the property agent, a chic Chinese girl who had learnt English in a six-month crash course, had said as she telephoned my hotel room before house-hunting on my second morning in Beijing.

While scanning the news wires in the Mumbai newsroom, I used to spot photographs of this 51-steel-storey symbol of power as it was built. The photographs had shown two bulky L-shaped towers linked at a sharp angle on the bottom and top so that the towers shook hands instead of scraping the sky. The world feted the handshake between the leaning towers as an engineering marvel in a seismic zone.

You either love the eccentric design or hate it. The Beijingers call it big shorts. (See photo. What do you think?)
For 18 months in Beijing, I have lived in the neighbourhood of this extraordinary piece of urban architecture built to symbolise modern China ahead of the Beijing Olympics. It is supposed to be the thriving new headquarters and media park of national broadcaster China Central Television (CCTV). But the CCTV towers are still shut and desolate. The rusting hull of a five-star hotel that was destroyed in a January inferno stands in the same complex.

This hulking oddity was the first of 300 high-rises planned for the 4 sq km central business district (CBD) or steel jungle that I call Beijing’s Nariman Point. The big shorts can be spotted even from the 14th century Forbidden City palaces.

But an empty skyscraper exudes no energy and spirit of the city. I no longer feel a thrill when I pass by the completed building blocks several times a day. Sections of the Chinese debate that global firms have made ‘modern’ Beijing’s skyline a playground to experiment with bold and brazen but not necessarily beautiful landmarks.

This month, plans were announced to double the CBD in eight years after the relocation of 10,000 homes. Another building boom to expand the CBD is hard to imagine in today’s Beijing where a 51-storey landmark is empty.

The seven blueprints under consideration, and described in the Chinese media, don’t seem to focus on extraordinary skyscrapers. The focus is on bicycle lanes, elevated roads, more subway stations and lots of parks, squares and boulevards. Beijing city may not wear another pair of big shorts.

eijingers nicknamed this 51-storey skyscraper as the big shorts. Built ahead of the Olympics in 2008 as a symbol of modern Beijing, it is still unopened even while the capital prepares for another building boom. Photo by Reshma Patil.

Beijingers nicknamed this 51-storey skyscraper as the 'big shorts'. Built ahead of the Olympics in 2008 as a symbol of modern Beijing, it is still unopened even while the capital prepares for another building boom. Photo by Reshma Patil.

The current ultra chic skyscrapers with four-lane roads and boulevards stand over land that, 10 years ago, was cluttered with narrow alleys (hutongs) that remind one of Mumbai’s chawls housing the poorest dwellers.

My apartment tower stands over what was once a refrigerator factory before the old Beijing was bulldozed. The five-star hotel and nightclub where many Indians used to head for Happy Hours (before they were relocated during the recession) was, guess what, a refrigerator factory.

Beijing’s officials sound extremely confident of where the Chinese economy is headed eight years from now as they plan this futuristic building frenzy even while current skyscrapers remain desolate.

Those who have stayed here longer describe days when thousands of migrant workers would swarm over a site to build a high-rise in six months. When I hunted for a house 18 months ago, every apartment that I checked in the CBD overlooked a dusty construction site.

Every morning, I peer out of the window and look straight down at a giant hole in the ground. When I moved in last March, I had worried that a high-rise would grow out of the hole in the ground and block my sunsets and view of the western hills. But there are only dozen-odd workers. For 18 months, the men who could raise five storeys a week have been desultorily moving earth in the deep foundation.

But as I read about China’s infrastructure stimulus-led economy expanding by 8.9 per cent in the last quarter, and see plans for a new building boom in the newspapers, I know my sunset is no longer safe.

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  • Candor

    Almost all BJP CMs have shown good appetite for development. May it be Gujarat, MP, Chattisgarh, Uttrakhand, HP, Punjab (in coalition), Karnataka, Goa. Should not forget it was NDA government who had brought the thaw in Indo-US relations throwing vast business and employment opportunities for India. India should be ruled by pro-development BJP.

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  • sanjay

    who so ever will be the PM he must have a quality of narendra modi– a best administrator in country

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  • Anonymous

    everything depends on up elections in 2012. if the bjp can put up a decent show then they have hopes of even going it alone in 2014 –in that case modi can become the prime minister easily .
    it all depends at the situation in 2012 or after that . We know the politicians –they will gravitate to a partY or person who has chances to come to power
    another thing which is important is the stress we are giving to muslim vote –this should be marginalised .
    Political pundits are wrong in their assesment as they see the coming to power of upa 1 as the reaction of the aam admi to the bjp rule —frankly bjp rule was not bad , better than the congress but there was one difference which perhaps cost them the election POLITICAL. PUNDITS MAY HAVE THEIR OWN FANCY THEORIES BUT MY FATHER 1 YEAR BEFORE THE BJP LOSS HAD PREDICTED THIS LOSS–THE REASON , AS HE SAID THT THEY SHOULD HAVE DONE SOMETHING DIFFERENT FOR THE HINDUS WHICH ALL WHO VOTED FOR THEM EXPECTED . AS HE SAID THEY DID NOTHING FOR THE HINDU CONSTITUENCY AS PEOPLE EXPECTED—– THE ENTHUSIASM OF THE HINDUS WHO VOTED FOR THEM WANED AS HE HAD PREDICTED . THE VOTE BANK OF BJP IS NOT MUSLIM BUT HINDUS –THEY SHOULD NURTURE THIS IF THEY WANT TO WIN . aFTER ALL 85 PERCENT IS DEFINETLY MORE THAN 15 PERCENT—-SOLIDFY , UNITE THIS VOTE BANK

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  • mohd anaskhan

    Million Dollar question is that when Modi has failed to manage 6 Cr Gujarati How he will manage 120 Cr Indians.

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    vinod Reply:

    Million pound answer is he is not their to manage the people , he is there for serving the 6 crore gujrati , & for your information he has taken the clear & clean steps which is followe by the people working in the state government & same will happened while ruling india as P.M

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    Anonymous Reply:

    Rajiv Gandhi failed to manage 5 million Delhites so how did he manage 800 million people in 1984?
    I know muslims are communal 99% of the time but it looks like you are communal 100% of the time.

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    Rameshagarwal36 Reply:

    BEING A CONSERVATIVE AND RADICAL MUSLIM NOTHING BETTER CAN BE EXPECTED FROM YOU IF HE HAS NOT WON HEART OF PEOPLE HOW HE WON ELECTION?EVEN USA HAS DESCRIBE HIM AS EST CM OF INDIIA.YOU LIVE IN INDIA AND THINK ABOUT TALIWAN.

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    Gaurang Vaishanv Reply:

    Congress “manages”, nay, manipulates people, mostly Muslims whom it has kept poor and uneducated for six decades. Modi does not manage, he inspires and enthuses. Results are for all to see there, if they have eyes to see.

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  • Ananthanarayan Na

    It’s a foolish write up and justify that muslims will vote for congress, as Narendra Modi is getting projected as PM , but of late muslims have also realised that sitting with congress for these many years has done no good and congress is considered as STUS QUO party.

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  • Famouspankaj

    it shall be blessing of God that modi shall become prime mnister of india -pankaj

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  • Mehta Snajay22

    NarinderJi is a fantastic personality. The man is full of moral character, ethics and having the spontaneous caliber to adminstrate and lead not only Gujrat, but India and its my conviction that India would be the Pioneer in world under his Premiership. I wish long life to NarinderJi as well as to attain his goal to lead the country for the well being of country.

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  • anirudh

    Before debating over the issue, think – who is there to compete with Modi – Rahul Ganghi?
    Wont it be a contest between ability and inability?
    The fact that Modi is the most able administrator and Rahul Ganghi is unable to do anything right, is not a secret. (So far only the Indians knew about it, now even the Americans do). In spite of this if Rahul Gandhi becomes the PM, wont it raise questions on the intelligence of the Indian voter?
    Shouldnt there be a reasonable criterion for the top job? The developmental work of Modi is for all to see (those who can not, should consult an eye specialist). But think – what can Rahul claim about, what did he do to deserve the post?
    Please think reasonably.

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  • Rameshagarwal36

    NARENDRA MODI HAS WON THE HEARTS OF NOT ONLY GUJRATIES BUT SENSIBLE INDIANS TOO FOR HIS GVERNANCE/DEVELOPMENT.HE IS OPPOSED BY POLITICIANS VYING FOR MUSLIM VOTES.BESIDE POL.A SECTION OF MEDIA UNDER INFLUENCE FROM UPA IARE TARGETTING MODI WITHOUT ANY BASIS.INSPITE OF MANY ENQUARIES NO SINGLE EVIDENCE HAS BEEN FOUND IMPLICATING HIM IN RIOTS.WHY POL./MEDIA IS QUIET ON ATTROCITIES ON HINDUS AT VALLEY AND ANTI SIKH RIOTS.INSPITE OF OPPOSITION FROM A LARGE SECTION OF PEOPLE FROM INDIA HE WORKED TIRELESSLY AND WON THE HEART OF MILLIONS OF COUNTRYMEN AND EVEN COUNTRY LIKE USA HAS ADJUSTED HIM AS BEST PM.CONGRESS WILL PROJECT RAHUL GANDHI WHO HAS NO EXPERIENCE AND VERY BAD RECORD AS CAN BE SEEN FROM UTUBE.HOW LONG DYNASTY RULE CONTINUE IN INDIA?CONGRESS HAS BECOME UNPOPULAR DUE TO CIRRUPTION/SCAMS/INFLATION/UNEVEN DEVELOPMENT AND FAILURE TO CONTAIN TERRORISM.YES IT IS TRUE THAT NITISH AND JD(U)WILL OPPOSE MODI DUE TO MUSLIM VOTES,NITISH IS ALSO VERY ARROGANT AND HIS PARTY DOES NOT KNOW THE DHARM OF ALLIANCE.HE IS POWER HUNGRY.IF THERE IS UNANIMITY IN BJP THEN MODI WILL BE BEST CHOICE FOR PM.AND TO THE INTEREST OF NATION.

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  • Anonymous

    - MR. MODI HAS A LONG VISION -NO DOUBT ABOUT IT. HE IS AN EXCELLENT PLANNER. IN HIS YOUNG AGE, HE COMMITED MANY UNCONSTITUTIONAL ERRORS FOR WHICH HE ISI SUFFERING .
    ONE WHEN TAKES UP RESPONSIBILITY OF A STATE HEAD, HE HAS TO TOTALLY DISCHARGE HIS CONSTITUTIONAL OBLIGATIONS.IN OUR HONEST VIEW , IT WOULD HAVE MORE APPROPIATE FOR HIM NOT TO FORGET THIS BASIC PRINCIPLE.ANY WAY WHAT HAS HAPPENED CAN NOT BE UNDONE.
    BUT HAD HE STARTED HIS THREE DAYS FASTS EITHER IN JUHAPURA OR IN ANY MUSLIM BIG AREA ,WHERE MUSLIMS WERE KILLED, COULD, IN MY OPINION , WON THE HEARTS OF LACS OF MUSLIMS OR THEIR CERTAIN BAD FEELINGS COULD HAVE BEEN WIPED OFF TO CERTAIN EXTENT..
    BUT FROM SAFETY CONSIDERATIONS , PROBABLY, THIS WAS NOT DONE. NOW, MR. MODI SHALL HAVE TO DO SOME POSITIVE TO WIN MUSLIM HEARTS.

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    Gaurang Vaishanv Reply:

    What you are suggesting is typical Congress theory of appeasement of minorities. Modi has done noting wrong, no court has charge-sheeted him nine years after riots that were in reaction to burning alive 59 innocent Hindus by Muslims. He does not owe anything special to the Muslims and will not do what you are asking.

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  • Gaurang Vaishanv

    How do you know that he has not won hearts of others? May be you need to take off those colored, prejudiced glasses and study media reports all over.

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  • Gaurang Vaishanv

    By any chance are you related to Shaktising Gohil or Arjun Modhwadia? If not, you should apply as their spokesperson. They have been weaving the same fantastic yarn for 10 years but without any success. So either people of Guajrat are stupid idiots who cannot see through Modi’s lies or you are a frustrated Congressi.

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  • Vedgautam

    Mahapatra, Are you selfless in writing this bl?g. Your one eye is on Race course road the other on Sonia’s feet.When Advani wins your same eye will be on his feet.

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  • Anonymous

    Advani’s Rathyatra is as selfless as Sonia declining PM post… :)

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  • Abu Ahmed

    There’s something known as retiring gracefully; however, for a poltician of any hue, this attribute never suits. However, I admire his stamina and will to go on with a never-say-die spirit.

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  • http://pulse.yahoo.com/_ZHTQE36KCN27UI4VPK352CRBNM Thangavelu

    it is the reality.there is not a single party which is corruptless.further even after the corruption was found,the leaders of the parties are supporting the corrupted persons.To clean the politcs we,the people have to hit the congress hardly because it is not willing to obey the will of the people,the janlokpal.If we coerce the congress all the others will fell in line.what Anna and gajerival doing are correct.we have to support them.though the other parties are corrupt and useless,we have to taught a lesson to congress first. In TN what happened?last time Jaya was taught a lesson.Now it is the time for Karuna DMK to take the lesson.Now what happeened.Jaya was obeying the will of the people.

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  • M.malla

    Congress has lost its credibility beyond repairs.It is in a state of paralysis at this time.There seems no chance of its recovering because of lack of farsighted, efficient and popular leaders.The whole party revolves round the ruling dynasty which has limited the chances of initiatives from the sincere and right thinking leaders.The inertia in congress will definitely benefit BJP in spite of its many problems.

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  • Abu Ahmed

    Where there is a will, there is a way. For the Congress – despite its frauds, scams and various other crimes – the only way forward is total commitment to secularism. That is the only way it can hope to win the votes of Muslims and Dalits – the only 2 communities in India who are wholly dedicated to the country. All others are casteists Nazis, more loyal to the Zionists than to Bharat.

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  • Anonymous

    The dirt of Karnataka and other states have brought bad name to BJP. If there is some loss to UPA it may not become the profit of BJP. Local parties may thrive and there may be still worse and a weak government at the centre. By 2014, if the BJP sets its house in order and shows some good governance in the states it rules now UPA may get into trouble. But UPA has some credible and positive popular programs and better disciplined than BJP. Hence it has an edge on BJP. The political condition of BJP in Karnataka is worsening. More and more Ministers are exposed in land scams. Even in bottom level there is lot of corruption. BJP should set right its house before it enters next election.

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  • Sabrina

    No where in the world do cycles co-exist with motorcars on a highway or freeway. This happened on a “highway”. Please do not mis-state that USA, Australia, Europe or Japan allows this to happen. It is totally forbidden. Besides, it is suicide. There is a minimum speed of at least around 55 MPH that a vehicle must be able to cruise to be allowed on a highway. Till this happens India will remain a third world country with third class laughable “highways”. Just building them isnt enough. Thorough planning must be done – BRT is one laughable “feat”. It has actually worsened traffic. Over 1000 trees were lost to build it. I daresay the govt will never bring out a white paper on the respiratory ailments that have increased for people along the corridor who have to inhale the muck caused by long jams. There were many other ways to well manage the Chirag Dilli crossing. BRT was not one of them. My illitrate driver used to laugh while it was being made… imagine reducing a lane for better traffic flow!!! And what were they thinking when the made the West End Flyover. Is it for coming or going? Or the Metro linkage? Are Rikshaws the solution. Does any body realise that the speed of the traffic moving on a road, depend on the slowest vehicle on the street. Thats the speed it will move at. One rickshaw causes untold national waste of Fuel!!! Does anybody think out of the box here. Yes, I would be very happy if we turned the entire city into a No-Motor Car zone. But various kinds of transport moving at widely different rates cannot co-exist on the same roads, same lanes. It is a no-brainer!!!

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  • http://www.nitrotek.co.uk/rc-boat.html rc boats

    Exactly the thing if person see the positive side of any of the thing then he/she never have to face any kind of troubles and not only that but all the things started to be happen in favor of that person. So positiveness has the biggest impact on lives of people and all need to be positive and i can say this thing from my personal experience.

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