Hindustan Times
An evening with a Raja
Somehow, I never had a penchant for Qawwali’s. My limited exposure to them was through Bollywood films, which zealously promoted this form of art till say early 1980’s.
The generation of Rishi Kapoor grew up enjoying Purdah hai Purdah from the blockbuster Amar Akbar Anthony. Even today, when Bollywood music buffs are divided between two music icons – AR Rahman and Himesh Reshamiya (is he one?)– I do have friends who go into raptures every time they get to hear old ones like Humen To Loot Liya Mil Ke Husna Walon Ne or Nigahen Milane Ko Jee Chahta Hai. So, its hardly a surprise to see old couples dancing to the tune of, O meri zohra zabi, tujhe maloom nahin at pre-wedding Sangeet ceremonies though the younger audience are perhaps more inclined towards younger Rahat Fateh Ali Khan, more contemporary in style than his uncle- the undoubted king of Qawwali.
The new generation has no exposure or connect to this magical form of art as Bollywood bid adieu to it long time back. Attuned to the beats of pop or rap, they find it old-fashioned — nothing that could give them a certain kick. Though I don’t belong to this generation, but till the other day I too found it too loud for my taste.
A recent invite for a truly Awadhi Shaam with guests from abroad at the royal palace of Raja Mehmoodabad Amir Naqi Khan completely changed my opinion about this sufi form of music. A few guests described it as supernatural but raw. To me it was heavenly with its free style, rhythm, devotion and the depth. No mikes, no orchestra, it was simply music that reverberated through the mahal. Can there be any comparison of it in today’s era of electronic music?
And I was not the only one so spellbound by its beat. The guests from France, who did not even know English, were simply captivated by the sound of music. They couldn’t follow the verses like me, but they could feel the depth of the soulful music. It was actually so mesmerising that we all clapped feverishly in sync with their dholak and loud claps of other Qawwals, starting slow and then its pitch growing.
Yes music knows no boundaries. It needs no words when it comes from the heart.
It was later that the guests told the host it would have better if they had arranged for translation of the verses and made some room for them to dance. “We wanted to dance”, said the old lady, the only one in a group of dozen tourists from France, who knew English.
As for me one number that I enjoyed most was the famous Chaap Tilak popular Kalam of Hazrat Amir Khusroo. I had heard it before, but Haider Buksh’s delivery was simply magical.
Later Haider Buksh, a Sufi singer whose forefathers have made their name in this form of music, said painfully, Qawaali Ibadat hai, gayki nahi hai (Qawwali is prayers and not singing alone.) He said the original form of Qawwali never had any Muqabala (a singing contest between the film stars). Bollywood actually damaged it more than popularising it. People who listen to Sufi music prefer the original form of Qawwali.
The ambience was heavenly. A white chandni (white sheets) had been spread out in the main hall lit by antique chandeliers. People sat comfortably with colourful bolsters spread all over- the entire experience simply mystifying.
The spread out at the dinner table was equally appealing. There are few homes in Lucknow even today where traditional herbs are used to give that special aroma and flavour to not only Korma and Biryani, but also even baigan ka bharta and kache kele ke kabab. And they are cooked in pans and not pressure cookers so that the juice ofthe herbas mixes with the food slowly slowly.
The evening was a part of a state government’s exercise to promote tourism in Lucknow. And it couldn’t have been better than this – a Raja, his Mahal, the Qawwals and then the sumptuous feast. Shall we say: Phir aane ko jee chahta hai.
So Hindi heartland is not all about gunshots.
(5 votes, average: 4.8 out of 5)
Loading ...Posted by Sunita Aron on Tuesday, April 7, 2009 at 7:17 pm
Filed under India · Tagged AR Rahman, Himesh Reshamiya, qawaali, Rahat Fateh Ali Khan, sangeet ceremonies
Qawwali truly belongs to the Sufi saints’ shrines and it is at these places that you get to hear the original qawwals performing with utmost devotion.
Around Lucknow, there is no dearth–from Kachhauchha to Kakori and Dewa Sharif to Bahraich. The perfect time is during Urs. The artistes who are most often themselves ‘murid’ perform to the best of their ability until many among the audience get entranced and reach the state of ‘haal’. Not just Urdu, the Persial qawwalis have also survived to this day. ‘
Of course, these are not popular qawwali mehfils. These are not the ones where qawwals like Majeed Shola, though no disrespect intended to him, perform before a gathering of thousands. The real Qawwali buffs are found at Urs and private mehfils in the towns scattered across the heartland–Mahmoodabad, Daryabad, Jehangirabad, Rudauli and hundreds of others.
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I myself do not have much uinderstanding of music. But then I like listening to Kawwalis, sung at the dargah of Hazrat Nizamuddin in Delhi during the Urs. Needless to say, a great experience, difficult to describe. Though i did stay in Lucknow for about three years, alas i failed to explore the city or the nearby towns.
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sunita Reply:
April 10th, 2009 at 10:46 pm
Qawwalis were best enjoyed during the Urs. In and around Lucknow there are umpteen number of dargahs where qawwalis are held. Though I never attended the one held at Dewa Sharif during annual Urs, I am told the experience is awesome. I am sure you felt the same way at dargah of Hazrat Nizamuddin in Delhi.
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An interesting read!Thanks
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sunita Reply:
April 11th, 2009 at 8:16 pm
Thank you to you too for appreciating it.
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PANKAJ Reply:
May 23rd, 2009 at 5:27 am
SUNITA I M PANKAJ FROM LUCKNOW IWANT TO KNOW ABOUT THE SINGING CONTEST WHERE ITS HAPPINING WAITING FOR YOUR REPLY THANKS
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The ambience plays a critical role.
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sunita Reply:
April 22nd, 2009 at 8:46 pm
Yes Lamba ji, it does. But also the words and music. As orchestra is less, the soul remains.
tks
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Angad,
I agree with you hundred percent. Its the ambience that matters most. The Qawwali that I attended had the right ambience- the mahal, select crowd, et al. In fact that’s precisely the reason why Qawwali’s are enjoyed most during Urs. I remember briefly attending one session at Ajmer Sharief. It was so beautiful.
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I think more has to be written by media to remove the misconception about Qawwali created by disrespectful Bollywood. Nusrat did a great job promoting original art form, so did Sabri brothers. As a member of youth brigade I can relate much more to spiritual Qawwalis of Baba Bulleh Shah, Baba Farid, Amir Khurso than gaudy Bollywood style Qawwalis.
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sunita Reply:
April 14th, 2009 at 9:09 pm
Thanks Suv for good suggestion. May be I will write more about this art form.
I plan more qawwali sessions to understand it better.
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The Raja of Mahmudabad lives in Mahmudabad House in Kaiserbagh and Amir Naqi Khan is the descendent of the 2nd wife of the current Raja’s grandfather. Please get your facts right. I am from Mahmudabad and I know this. YOu can check this by googling current Raja name Mohammad Amir Mohammad Khan whose father was Mohammed Amir Ahmed . Amir Naqi Khan is not raja!
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