My love of dressing down and casual places



I watched Spain beat the Netherlands in the World Cup in a small trendy but casual Moroccan-style café/bar called Mocha in Mumbai on Sunday night. The atmosphere was amazing. The place was packed with young Indians, and the odd foreigner here and there. A large screen came down at 11.30pm and people puffed on hookah pipes, drank Kit Kat shakes, sipped wine, and ate their glorious mozzarella paninis, as the match kicked off.

I almost felt like I was in England. It is funny how a sport like football can unite people across the world. You never would have thought that in a cricket-crazy nation like India, football would have such a following. People were as enthused about the beautiful game as the Brits, Spanish and Dutch were, yet an Indian team hadn’t even entered the World Cup. (Obviously India didn’t qualify, but why didn’t it…? I see young men practising football on every street corner in Mumbai.In a country this size, with a passion for football, India should now be aiming to qualify, surely? Is there a lack of decent football pitches? A lack of serious tournaments being held? A lack of coaches?…..)

Anyway, it felt great to be watching the World Cup in India, with as much passion around me, as there would have been back home. Such is globalisation, that India is, when it comes to watching footie, no different to the West. If there is any difference, it is that the Indian crowd was more sedate, watching it in a calm and fun manner. There was none of the aggression, fighting and rowdiness you might find at a High Street pub in England. In fact, you would never see the kind of football hooliganism in India, that is seen in the UK. Even when the power on the screen went just after Spain scored, people remained calm and a fight didn’t commence. The fact that binge drinking has not really taken off in India is I’m sure part of the reason. In the UK it is normal for people to go out “to get drunk.” And for that they down pints and pints of beers, then vomit, and collapse all over the place, or pick a fight and end up with glass in their face. You might witness bandhs, and weird demonstrations here, but you never see drunken aggression and hooliganism happening in India. I think it’s because less people drink here anyway (many instead take soft drinks), but even those that do drink alcohol, drink it differently. It is done socially, but not in excess. You don’t see people downing shot after shot of tequila, pint after pint of draught beer, or pouring glasses from jugs of potent Long Island Iced Tea, like you might see in the West, then ending up in Accident and Emergency. Somehow the drinking culture is different, and people don’t drink to excess in India. That is similar to places like Spain and Italy, I guess.

As I was sitting in Mocha, I realised Mocha is my favourite eating place in Mumbai. The prices are reasonable, the food delicious, it serves wine and beer, and single origin coffees, the ambience is casual but stylish, and I love the wide range of shakes (M&M, Kit Kat, Ferrero Rocher) and unusual food items, as well. I’m not really into dressing up and the page 3 scene, I have to admit. I reckon I wouldn’t mind it if I was an actor or model by profession, as then I wouldn’t have much to do during the day, and could spend all day getting ready. But being a journalist is quite tiring and the last thing I want to do when I get home is dress up. Being in a jeans and a T shirt at Mocha is my kind of thing. I don’t know where the ‘dressing up to go out’ culture in Mumbai hails from, but I suspect it is from the USA. Wherever it is from, it doesn’t quite suit me.

Initially when I first came to Mumbai, most bars were high-end….The kind of places you need to put on a dress and jewellry for (if a girl), and then pay high prices for drinks at. That was the only option if you wanted to go out…It was either that or cafes like Barista, where you just had coffee, alongside a few strugglers, or I guess for the daring, one could venture into quarter or janta bars…. There you could probably see ‘another India’ over a domestic whisky…I didn’t try this, but perhaps I should have….Back then there were times I didn’t go out just because I couldn’t face dressing up, even though I wanted to go out….

Now though, finally, a string of independent trendy cafes are opening up – that offer causal places you can go out in stylish environments…that are more than Barista and CCD. This is my cup of tea.

These include the new Pali Village Café in Bandra, that is like a Tuscany villa cum old rambling house, with pictures and postcards on the wall, that serves great coffee, and where you are likely to spot Saif Ali Khan. Sandwich and Co. in Bandra is another secret haunt for the posh Pali Hill brigade..it’s a tiny café, but has great cakes and every table outside has a laptop point, they also play cool party music you can listen to as you work….Indigo Deli is an institution loved by all in Mumbai – there you feel like you are in a New York deli, as you drink their single origin coffee and try their amazing desserts…But it does have competition with the BBC Café at the JW Marriott in Juhu, which is perfect for people seeking healthy, natural western-style salads and sandwiches (not drenched in mayonnaise or spicy sauces) – another great option is The Gourmet Store at the Grand Hyatt, which does the best lentil salad in town, and is also a cool hangout, as is the Bombay Express at the Renaissance Hotel, which serves amazing coffee as well. You don’t have to dress up for any of these places.

The good news too is that mid range bars (as opposed to high end) are also finally opening up in the city. So, no longer do you have to choose between shelling out Rs 2,000 on a cover charge in a five star, or Rs 700 for a glass of wine in a standalone,or sitting in the basic décor of a shady quarter bar…you can now head to a trendy stylish bar, where a glass of wine costs less than Rs 200! About time too…..Similar bars in the UK include the Wetherspoon chain of bars. Until now in Mumbai, there have been very few ‘bar bars’ – apart from some very expensive ones.

The first two of these new mid range bar chains are WTF! which has a branch in Khar and Quench which has opened in Bandra. Both intend to expand across India. Both are based on the concept of offering trendy venues, which you don’t have to dress up to go to, with drinks at moderate prices. The business model is based on attracting high volumes every night, not just at weekends.

As Vineet Shetty, a partner at Quench, says: “I don’t want to open a bar where I just see myself and a string of waiters and the place is empty. I want to run a bar that is packed every night.”

This, I say is the future, as it is where the mass consumer market lies. Even the expats I know have been complaining about the high prices of drinks in some Mumbai bars, which can exceed prices of bars in London and New York. Sure, some rich Indians can afford them, but not everyone can, more so now that more expats are on local salaries. There has to be a mid-range option for people. And finally it has arrived.

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  • proj

    Well, a lot of binge drinking in India don’t happen at these high end bars over football like in England (English fans have earned a reputation all over for their hooliganism) but both guys and gals do get drunk. Guys do all kind of funny stuff and most recently, drunk women have been running cops over in Mumbai and Delhi. Once more affordable bars open up, I am pretty sure these rowdies will show up at these places and brawls will break out etc.

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  • Vikram

    What is a kit kat shake.

    Madam you probably dont go to the places where the working/ labor class drinks their toddy/ narangi/ mausambi with boiled eggs and chana (and please for Gods sake dont – thats not part of the official Indian experience circuit) There is over drinking and fights alright. Though they probably dont watch sports on large screen TVs. The places where you go to would have educated kids mostly from good families who know to keep their cool in the bar, not cool with girls too, but probably run over someone sleeping on the streets when they drive home. Many also down a few shots in the car to get really ‘out’, cheaper that way. but ya the english are really into binge drinking. maybe its the weather which makes one try to kill themselves with drink.

    And over dressing in US!!! US is the mecca of dressing down – rather dressing as slobs. I have seen the english dress better. Indians either dress too formal or make an *** of themselves trying to be cooool. anywhooo enjoy your drink and viva espana. btw the english football team should be fired

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    proj Reply:

    I always felt asking Naomi where the English got their goalkeeper Green from ? In fact I hold Goalkeeper James responsible for Germany’s third goal but I strongly believe had Lampard’s goal been allowed, it would have been a different story altogether.

    That gives me a good segue way into another aspect of American culture, their fascination of all kind of funny sports which only they themselves play. The game which Americans call football is one of the most unimaginative, boring and dumb sports I have ever seen, worthwhile mentioning I like rugby. Cricket requires lot more skill than just strong arms, no wonder baseball is so mundane.
    The American disinclination to play ball with rest of the world shows their lack of globalized mindset, in fact I think Americans are the least globalized in the world and are a little too full of themselves and I am very happy that their products don’t sell anywhere in the world unless they bribe government officials to buy their crappy stuff. Other than Apple and Google, none of the companies are worth buying from, just forget their car companies, I know hundreds of people who gave the American autos a chance and felt cheated by their quality standards. On that context

    On the contrary, Indians have been passionate about world soccer since eons in spite of their lack of any worthwhile achievement in recent football history, thanks to an extremely corrupt and divided national administration.

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    Craig Reply:

    proj, turning a great blog about fun new bars into an anti-american rant is just plain ‘ol silly.

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    Craig Reply:

    * coffee bars that is

    proj Reply:

    well, the harsh reality is hard to digest, I understand, so it might look silly to someone who comes from a country where most people and mainstream culture don’t care a hoot about one of the most important global sporting events of our times which happens only once in four years.

    Saarthak Reply:

    Kit Kat shake is a chocolate shake made from the popular Nestle chocolate of the name. There are Mocha oulets in Delhi and Gurgaon too. The one at GK-1 in Delhi doesn’t serve alcohol though

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  • Mick

    Bloody football needs banning the whole world over come to that any game involving balls should be banned. For those of you lucky enough not to live in England this is what you missed on TV whether on a big screen or a normal one, The World Cup played in South Africa where FIFA made £700 million pounds and didn’t pay ANY tax on that and that’s the reason it was in S Africa, so if that load of balls wasn’t enough then at the same time there was Wimbledon another load of balls involving people running around with their mouths open. Now it’s bloody golf who gives a toss if woods wins loses or heaven forbid scratches his A***. Please someone rescue use from the balls big, medium or little oh and the men in suits that run all of this and fill their pockets while doing it. as for England 2 small boys and their dog would have done better than we did so there.

    Having said all that Mucha sounds a nice place as do most of the bars in this blog just the sort of place I would use, but Naomi drinking to excess is as rampant there as here, just different as are the bars as i wrote before i am reading Maximum City by Sekutu Mehta it covers the late 90’s and the bars he writes about had Barline girls where men would shower rupee’s over the dance girls heads every night 2,3 4 even5 lakhs a night he does say that when the late 90’s bubble burst this went out of fashion, but it does leave me with the impression that like just about every city in the world if you want something and can afford it you can buy it. It is nice to know that there are some nice places in a place that is so big I find it frightening the little I’ve seen of it that is. I think you are very brave for living and working there.

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    Ananth Reply:

    As you rise up the ladder of success, the balls become smaller – that’s why the CEO’s play golf and the blue-collar workers play football – i read this somewhere…

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    Mick Reply:

    Ahh well I never thought of that but it certainly sounds right, can’t complain about cricket though, but I left something else out of my rant about balls on TV in between the football and tennis did we have to normal programmes oh no, what were we treated too, endless middle class kids trying to look cool at wait for it Glastonbury Festival would you believe. This is how far this country has gone from totally spouting the Govt line that festivals are places of subversion and drugs to this where they put on the most stupid line up every year, once again headlined by misogynistic homophobic shouty black geezers with ridiculous haircuts and whats more these middle class slobs leave 52 tons of rubbish on Eaves farm (over 5tons of abandoned tents) and the public are stupid enough to believe that this is a working dairy farm. Also they now paid almost £200 for the pleasure. I hate Micheal Eaves and everything he stands for as i was at the festival that caused him to say ” you can come to my farm and have a festival, but we won’t have electric music and I’ll NEVER sell out” sorry but I’m an ageing hippy who went to some of the best festivals ever, and i hate seeing this man and his family make money like this.

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    proj Reply:

    Well, Mick, can you imagine then how much courage does it take to live and work in countries where housing owners racially discriminate against you treating you less favourably than other tenants and even tell you to “go back” to your home country in spite of lecturing the entire world every other day on values like equality, freedom, racial diversity and what not ? A bunch of hypocrites !

    I had written on this in one of my previous comments but finally it seems the justice department has woken up from deep slumber.

    http://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/world/indians-abroad/US-files-suit-over-racial-discrimination-against-Indians/articleshow/6180049.cms

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    Mick Reply:

    Proj sorry if I don’t follow you here in England the law is so weighted in favour of the Indian/African whom ever when it comes to housing that this problem doesn’t exist in England. my limited experience of the states is west coast mainly Alaska, where i met a part Indian/Cuban/British virgin island/Jamaican who seem right at home with quite a few Indians (not native Americans). the rest seem to be having various sorts of affairs with GOD, heaven forbid no pun intended.

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    proj Reply:

    Not sure of the right mechanism but if I understand correctly, Americans get paid by the government if they set up home in Alaska, so unpopular is the place because of its harsh climate. They have special tyres for their cars with iron on them, that’s what they use most of the year.

  • Mick

    But proj it is stunningly beautiful, just unbelievably so

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  • Blogger

    It is interesting to note how Naomi’s blog wanders from the football to the pub – and our comments from drinking to Alaska! LOL!

    Naomi raised a good point about how pathetic it is for our country not to even qualify – I would say that too is far fetched; I would be happy if they even give a good fight in a decent Asian competition – I know they have won a few but then none of the Asian heavyweights such as S Korea, Japan were playing.

    To answer your question Naomi it is a combination of various factors (for India’s failure in football):

    1. Lack of interest – you may have noticed a big crowd but it was basically due to it being the world cup – you wont find similar interest even if it was premier ship’s last deciding match or UEFA final;
    2. Lack of interest leading to lack of funds for Indian football association, etc – no takers for tickets no funds; no sponsors, no funds, etc..
    3. Physique – yes that right – just like Tennis has gone from the quick lean guys into huge strong athletes – football is no longer for the frame of Indian guys – they just get pushed right out of the ground – let me not even talk about stamina, speed!!!

    Going to drinking – many have said that thankfully you have not seen the ugly side yet; you being a journalist would have seen the evils anyway (domestic violence, road rage, accidents, etc).

    Pubs – now that is not my specialty – but I would like to know too – what is a Kit Kat shake? The others were chocs too – so are these mocktails or cocktails with chocs in em? yummy!

    Proj again shared some sad news – I feel he speaks from his own personal experience so hope things get better and maybe you could move into a better neighborhood (apart from Alaska) where you would not feel the same!

    On the sports comment I think you were a bit harsh, every sport has its own beauty – if not they would have died by now. I have played baseball’s version – softball with the Americans here and it is one awesome sport – you just dont win until you have won! I may not understand American Football, but I am sure those who do, love it.

    Naomi: You have not been visiting your blogs at all – atleast on this one please do let us know what those wonderful drinks are all about!

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    Blogger Reply:

    .. and Naomi, tell me the names of your cat too – I asked that in your earlier blog comment but you have not visited since or not responded to any comments.. thanks..

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    Naomi Reply:

    Why do you want to know the name of my cats?!

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    Naomi Reply:

    Mocha is famed for its shakes. They have a wide variety – like Kit Kat, Ferrero Rocher, After Eight, M&M and what they do is is mix up the chocolate bars themselves in the shake, so the shake is all crunchy. It’s delicious.

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